![]() By healing ends with regular trims and creative techniques, as well as softening hard lines with purpose built tools, even the most compromised platinum locks can look soft and polished,” says Linares. “With dramatic color being at the forefront of current trends, chemically processed hair that shows cutting lines and becomes unruly from damage is a daily challenge. Continue in half-inch sections until a visible difference is made, but check the section often to be sure not to take too much off! Be sure to hold the hair with firm tension, as this will not only help the ends “pop up” cleaner, but the rest of the hair will stay tightly wrapped around fingers and not be accidentally cut. Split ends will “pop up” as the hair is rolled over the middle finger. Hold the hair with tension and slowly slide hand out to the ends. Close to the root area, wrap the section flat under the ring finger, over the middle finger, and under the index finger. ![]() If the damaged ends are too evenly distributed to selectively cut, isolate distressed hair and section off a half-inch horizontal slice. Particularly on highly processed pale blond hair, where cutting lines can be very apparent, utilizing these tools will diffuse hard edges for a softer finished look. Tools such as these are great for creating shorter lengths within a section for effect, or for selective hair removal within the interior. The Artist Series 6” Slide Cutting Shear features curved blades meant to “push” the hair, creating very soft edges that won’t distress the cuticle of chemically over-processed hair. Due to its unique design, once the cutting teeth have passed through the hair and the shear is closed, there is no exposed blade surface, so you can close the shear inside the section and slide without damaging other hair. The InvisiBlend Shear is a true slide-cutting blending shear. These tools, such as the Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear and Artist Series 6” Slide-Cutting Shear, allow a stylist to softly and selectively remove unwanted hair from the mid-strand out to the ends. Within a section, if the overall length is acceptable but there is damage inside the section, consider cutting from the interior using slide-cutting tools. If possible, use elevation when cutting these sections, it will drop out invaluable length and results in lines that fall softer in the silhouette. Often, we diagnose and cut distressed hair right where it lives, which can easily leave us visible marks in the haircut. However, in many instances where chemical or thermal evidence may be isolated to specific areas, simple cutting techniques may provide temporary solutions,” explains Linares.Ĭategorically speaking, cutting lines in natural fall leave the most weight in a shape. “In the most extreme cases, damaged hair must be cut away to restore vitality to the shape. Hair with excessive mechanical/thermal damage can also take on these characteristics. When the ends of hair are distressed, they often become unruly - sticking out or feeling overly dry. Jesse Linares, Sam Villa ArTeam, gives tips on how to avoid cutting lines when working with this hair type. This is especially true when working with very light blondes or hair that is chemically over-processed. Color-treated hair can present unique challenges when being cut.
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